Home Theater Setup (surround sound Speaker Setup)
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I am going to assume that you already have a surround sound or home theater amplifier or receiver. There are 3 main home theater speaker configurations see termed 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 channel surround. You’ll also mentioned the terms Dolby Digital, DTS, and Dolby Pro-Logic. There are some other formats such as Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro-Logic IIX, Dolby TrueHD, DTS neo: 6.1, DTS-ES, TrueSurround XT, and undoubtedly more, but they do not need to be addressed separately as Information below is also relevant for them.
Let’s remove Dolby Pro Logic first: if your receiver is only Pro-Logic (only older receivers at this point) you do not have to worry about 6.1 or 7.1 surround because your system does not use the extra speakers. The two factors relevant to our discussion are: />
1. how many channels is your system permits, and />
2. Want to buy that many speakers? />
All receivers that support more than 5.1 channels will also work fine with a 5.1 channel setup. Obviously, 7.1 will provide better surround sound than 5.1, but at the expense of two extra speakers. If you have a limited budget you have to decide whether to buy 5.1 higher quality speakers, or go for cheaper speakers to allow for 7.1 channels. By the way, the 0.1 channel home theater subwoofer. subwoofer is really needed for home theater. A system will work without it, but I do not recommend going without for home theater. The center channel is also very important for home theater, serving to anchor the sound on the video screen. This is the recommended placements according to Dolby Labs. />
5.1 surround system:
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A). Center speaker centered on video /> source
B). Subwoofer (s) in an arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video the source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, in an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position />
6.1 surround system:
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A). Center speaker centered on video /> source
B). Subwoofer (s) in the arch of the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, in an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position />
E). Rear center 180 degrees (directly behind) the sitting position />
7.1 surround system:
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A). Center speaker centered on video /> source
B). Subwoofer (s) in the arch of the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, in an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position />
E). L & R rear equidistant and on a 135-150 degree angle from the listening position. />
The description above is the specifications for speaker placement according to Dolby Labs. />
subwoofer Setup
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Your subwoofer may have a switch for Dolby Digital / Pro Logic. If your receiver is only capable of Dolby Pro Logic (only older systems) you need to use Pro Logic inputs and set the crossover frequency properly to match your main speakers. You can use an 80 Hz setting and adjust the volume properly for a reasonable output. I will not go further as almost all systems are capable of Dolby Digital output. If you have a Dolby Digital capable receiver (assuming you are using the sub for home theater purposes) set the switch to Dolby Digital even if you are using a Pro Logic source. The reason for this is that it allows your home theater receiver to manage the output & bass crossover frequency bass information. Your receiver will ensure proper output of the sub in the case of Dolby Pro Logic source material. If you use these inputs only Pro Logic, Dolby Digital programs can not be reproduced properly. The same goes if you have multiple inputs on your sub. If your input is labeled LFE it is the equivalent of a Dolby Digital input. Want to use the RCA style input plug (or plugs) if you are using the subwoofer in a surround system. If you have speaker level binding post inputs, they are almost always for using the subwoofer in a non surround sound speaker setup. Preset the subwoofer level control to about halfway before running the white noise test tone to calibrate your receiver speaker levels. You absolutely must run the test and balance your speaker levels to have the surround system perform well. Do not worry about the crossover frequency control sub for Dolby Digital or better systems. For Pro Logic set it to the point where the bass to your main speakers drops off, (or 80 Hz if you did not find any information, and adjust from there for best sound) that require looking at the documentation for your speakers. />
If you are not using your sub in a surround system, may, with advantage, use the speaker level inputs on the back of your sub. If you have relatively small speakers without much bass output can provide a great sound quality advantage. The left and right receiver channels are connected directly to the subwoofer, and left and right speakers connect to the speaker out connectors on the subwoofer. What this does is allow the sub to produce the low bass that the main speakers can not, which of course the other type of connection will do also. The advantage here is the fact that the subwoofer connected this way, it filters out the bass signals to your main speakers, so they never try to speakers produce bass that they can not handle. This results in clearer, cleaner sound and more volume capability from your main speakers. />
subwoofer placement is generally as below for other speakers. It is true that bass is omni directional and therefore must be able to place a subwoofer anywhere, but as usual it depends on your situation. I play music loud, and can detect where the subwoofer is located by feeling the vibrations. I find it very distracting to have the bass seems to come from the front of the room, but the vibrations of the bass coming from another direction. I therefore always prefer a subwoofer in the front room. subwoofer should be adjusted in accordance with the setup (pink noise test) amplifier technique has been used to, if in a surround system. This usually means a crossover point of about 80Hz. If you have a phase switch or knob, this sets the position where the bass sounds the loudest. I also notice that most manufacturers recommend that the sub be placed in front of the room in a horizontal line to the main speakers. (Actually, to make all the speakers an equal distance from the listening position, they form an arch.) />
How to get the best of your Speakers & How to improve your sound quality for no extra money (unless you need speaker cable!)
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The first consideration with a new system is speaker placement, wiring and second, both of which deserve consideration. We will cover wiring first with some generalities that apply to all types of speakers. The placement part will cover the speaker of the house only. />
your speaker cable
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First and foremost, wire selection can be very important. If your speakers are installed in-wall, you will need speaker cable rated cl3 or equivalent. If the external speakers, you should try to use what is termed a “direct burial” cable or equivalent. />
Next, if you care at all sound quality, 22 gauge cable is not recommended. It can be used for very short runs, and it is smaller for hiding, but because of resistance you sacrifice some sound quality. I would recommend 16 gauge wire for most runs, unless you want to really get the best out of your speakers, in which case use 12 gauge or larger. For a long run I would recommend greater than 16 gauge cable. Click here to view our articles and cable distance chart. I personally use a good quality audio 12 gauge cable myself, but you will pay more for cable this large. The advantages are better dynamics, and the amplifier can control your speakers better due to the low resistance wire. As always, let the price point of your speakers determine the cable. Do not put expensive cables on cheap speakers, and vice versa. BTW, do not try to use romex (house wiring) instead of decent quality audio cable. Really, just say no. For many reasons.
A common question is if fancy cable makes any difference. I must state here that many people consider the very topics that are so much snake oil. I personally believe that I can hear some differences, depending on the quality of related systems. In other words, any difference hearable cables are more noticeable in a system with more resolution. Also consider that many listeners are not selling cable claim to hear a difference. Consider any double blind tests carefully. I usually can pick holes in the logic behind most of the tests, and point out factors not considered. A perfect example is an amplifier test (by a major audio magazine) level match amps, produced a double-blind trial, and asserted the amps sounded identical, so they are all recommended to buy a less expensive amp. Here’s the rub: Under their exact condition, which is not normal listening conditions, the amps sounded the same. Consider this unmentioned idea: The cheaper amp is less power output than the other, and under normal listening conditions, say with loud rock music, and inefficient or difficult to drive speakers have pooped out before reaching the level of satisfying listening, not to mention clipping and distorting from overdriving the amp. One problem with double blind tests is, to be precise, they have to control every factor in the universe can affect results, even unknown factors. The other is, to compare everything on an even playing field, they purposely diminish or nullify the differences, then triumphantly announce they’re all the same. A perfect example from the top level corresponds to a volume level that does not stress more easily stressed amp. />
Polarity or terminate your speaker is extremely important. This means finding the wire with a stripe or writing on one side, and connecting wire in either the + (red) or – (black) to the amplifier and speaker. It does not matter whether the stripe wire connects to plus or minus, as long as it is the same at both ends, and all the speakers. I always connect the plus to the stripe, just to be consistent. If you get this wrong you will lose almost all your bass response, and voices will float around instead of being centered when they should. />
Speaker Placement Home
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Ideal placement for best sound is going to vary with the type of speakers you have, but we can supply some good generalities. Obviously, for a surround system, you have built in limits. The center channel needs to go above or below the center of your television, (or perhaps centered behind a projection screen) and the left and right front need to go left and right front. So on for the rest of the speakers. It should be added at this point that for surround sound placement the ideal is all 3 front speakers an equal distance from the listener. This actually places the front speakers in an arc. It is usually good to put rear surrounds a little higher than ear level so that all listeners get a better chance to hear all speakers. Leaving aside the obvious detail of surround sound, here is how to improve the sound of your system for free. />
First, do not put anything in front of your speakers, and if they put in a cabinet make sure the front speakers are even in the face of the cabinet. Also, keep in mind that some speakers as rear ported different perform very poorly in cabinets. Make sure ports speakers, which can be at the front, back, side or elsewhere, are not blocked. This also goes for subwoofers. />
Stability is also important, your speakers need to remain stable at high volume levels. If they move with loud drum beats, your system will be robbed of punch and impact. If you use speaker stands make sure they are stable enough for the size of your speakers. A quick tip is to use some blu-tack or mortite putty between the speaker and stand to improve the coupling and add stability. Spike under standing work well for carpeted rooms. />
Next, check out the sound of your speakers. Generally, most speakers sound better when aimed directly at the listener, and located at ear height. It is not always the case. If the treble or voices sound a little too sharp, then maybe the speaker sound is better aimed straight out instead of the listener. />
Listen to the bass. Is it boomy, or lacking? If your speakers sound a little boomy, as it is in a barrel, bass response can probably be improved by moving your speakers farther from a wall or corner. If your speakers are very lightweight in the bass, they may sound better closer to a wall. Remember not to block any ports bass. If the speaker is rear ported it needs a little space out from the wall and clearance on the edge of the speaker to perform well. />
One little tweak you can try: some speakers sound better with the speaker grills off. Try removing it and see if they sound better. In many cases there is no noticeable difference, but it costs nothing to try. />
Other issues:
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If your speakers are correctly phased as described above but voices are not sharply locked to the location that you might have your speakers too far apart. This generally applies to stereo, not surround sound. />
If not used in a surround system, the subwoofer crossover point should be adjusted to coincide with the drop off in bass from your main speakers. You can find it listed in your documentation, usually in the order of-3dB point. If your speakers still do not seem to perform as they should, you should consider whether the amplifier attached to it is up to the task of driving them. There are more issues here than power, especially impedance. An amplifier with high wattage may drive 8 ohm speakers well, and do very poorly on 4 ohm speakers if the amplifier is not designed for “high current” or rated at 4 ohm speakers. In addition, many amplifier (or receiver, home theater amplifier, etc) manufacturers use various methods to exaggerate the wattage ratings on their amplifiers. The true rating to look for is called the RMS rating, and should be rated at a specific impedance (4 ohm, 8 ohm) etc and a specific distortion rating. This does not mean that all amplifier & receiver manufacturer that uses a term like ‘Dynamic Power Rating’ is trying to deceive buyers. In some instances (such as the Nad equipment) such number may be very significant. Just make sure you are comparing apples to apples, and use the RMS rating as a baseline for comparison. If ALL other factors are equal, the one with a higher dynamic power rating may have more punch and impact. />
Any information on this page may be freely copied, as long as the link below is included. />
Buy home theater speaker BIC America by />
http://www.smartbuyspeakers.com
I have 27 years technical experience including 8 years as owner of an A / V retail & installation business. My multiple technical certifications include Cedia (Custom Electronics Design & Installation Association). Technical experience with the Audio / Video, computers, typewriters, copiers, video gaming machines, video slot machines, satellite systems including 2 way vsat systems and cable TV systems among others. My current job as webmaster for several websites.
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